Whisky Guide > Distillery Profiles > Glenburgie Distillery
Glenburgie
Aeneas MacDonald lists Glenburgie in his
classic book 'Whisky', as one of his twelve great malts. But despite this
notable tribute, the distillery itself is surprisingly inconspicuous, quietly
nestled for over 180 years in a wooded valley, surrounded by typical Morayshire
farmland. Its soot-covered rooftops are barely noticeable from the busy
Aberdeen/Inverness road, which liesjust a few minutes' drive away.
Nevertheless once at the distillery it is
easy to see why a 'great'malt might be produced here.
The natural surroundings alone are invigorating, with the salt filled air,
blowing fresh from the Moray coast and the fine view that the distillery
commands of the impressive northern hills.
The distillery was actually founded as long
ago as 1810 and even when Alfred Barnard visited it in 1887, he described
Glenburgie in his book 'Whisky Distilleries of the United Kingdom', as "a
very ancient distillery, and about as old-fashioned as it is possible to
conceive".
Over the years a number of people have had
ownership of Glenburgie but in 1936 it was bought by Ballantines, and since
then it has been an important part of Ballantines and Old Smuggler Blended
whisky. The distillery was, in fact, quite unique around this time in that it
had a manageress, Miss Nicol. Very few women have aspired to such a position,
with one other notable example being Miss Bessie Williamson, Owner and Manager
of Laphroaig Distillery.
Glenburgie Distillery is now under the ownership of Allied Distillers.
Today, the distillery admirably combines old
with new. Some of the original buildings still stand, including a small
building that used to house the original manager's office, the excise office
and an incredibly small warehouse by today's standards. Indeed, whilst rebuilding
and upgrading have taken place over the years the layout today is very similar
to that of the original plan, but Glenburgie is very much a working modern
distillery.
Glenburgie has a very individual character.
One lasting impression is of the compact layoutof the
whisky production area, in stark contrast to the vast warehousing capacity. The
whole production process is undertaken in a relatively small area, from the
storage of the malted barley through to the distillation of the spirit.
Obviously planned to achieve optimum efficiency, only two men are required to
work in this part of the distillery at any one time.
Within the whisky making process, numerous
factors combine to create the very individual style
of each maltand the choice of malted barley is as important as any.
Brian Thomas, the distillery manager explains
that the barley selected for Glenburgie is very lightly peated, which
contributes to its sweet, estery style and delicate flavour.
The distillery used to have a floor maltings,
but this was discontinued in 1958. Now the malted barley is brought in from
maltsters in the local area and sometimes further south. Huge silos store up to
276 tonnes of malted barley, from where it is weighed and screened for any
impurities and then ground finely in a Porteus malt mill, in such a way as to
achieve maximum extraction of sugars in the mash tun.
During his visit to the distillery in 1887,
Alfred Barnard described the mash tun as being ten feet in diameter by three
and a half feet deep. To accommodate today's requirements the traditional
copper-domed mash tun is some 16 feet in diameter and five feet deep, with a
capacity of five tonnes.
The ground barley, known as grist, is infused
with warm water - the temperature of 63.5 degrees being critical. Also critical
is the source of the water and at Glenburgie it comes from a spring situated in
the grounds of the distillery. By contrast, the water used for cooling purposes
comes from the distillery's own dam, fed by a nearby stream, and then recycled
back into the dam to be used again.
The contents of the mash tun are pumped
through to one of the thirteen wash backs, of which seven are stainless steel
and six are of the more traditional wooden style. Each has a capacity of 23,500
litres. Here yeast is added and fermentation takes about 48 hours in total,
although probably about 99% of the fermentation will have taken place after
just 24 hours.
At Glenburgie a combination of brewers yeast
and fresh yeast from four different suppliers is used, which contributes to the
final complexity in flavour of the malt.
Every five and a three quarter hours, half a
wash charge is filled into a wash still, which has a capacity of 18,000 litres,
and the low wines boiled off. Eleven and a half hours later, two quantities of
low wines are mixed with one quantity of foreshots and one quantity of feints
and this goes to the spirit still for a further eleven and a half hours.
Alfred Barnard writes of 'two small' Pot
stills, but there have been a number of changes since his time. The distillery
operated with one pair of stills for many years, but in 1958 a
pair of 'Lomond' Stills were added.
For a time, the distillery was actually
producing two different whiskies, Glenburgie, and another
malt, known as Glencraig, which was named after Mr William Craig,
production director of Ballantines at that time. He was actually one of the few
men to have a singlemalt named after him. Some
Glencraig can still be found but it is unlikely to be distilled again as in
1981 the Lomond Stills were replaced by a pair of conventional pot stills.
Limited quantities of this very rare malt are available under Gordon &
MacPhail's Connoisseurs Choice label.
Glenburgie has an aura of a traditional malt
distillery, which has become at one with its natural surroundings. The tidy
lawns around the distillery blend easily into the surrounding farmland. The
Distillery has obviously been witness to many such changing seasons in which
time it has consistently produced malt whisky of discernible quality.
Fortunately, with the authority of the distillery owners, Gordon & MacPhail
have been able to capture some of the history of the distillery in their
bottlings of Glenburgie single malt, now at three different ages.
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