Whisky Guide > Distillery Profiles > Ardbeg Whisky Distillery

Ardbeg Whisky Distillery
Situated on the south coast of the island, Ardbeg is the
most easterly of distilleries on this coast. The land here
slopes gently to the sea and is dotted with farms. Then, overlooking
a small bay with rock outcrops just out from the shore, stands
Ardbeg Distillery. The prevailing winds, which come from the
south west, force the waves to crash against the distillery
buildings, leaving deposits of seaweed in their wake. Two
years ago the seaweed had piled to two feet in depth outside
the still room door - an image you can easily capture when
nosing Ardbeg 1974! It is no wonder that the casks of whisky
slowly maturing in the distillery warehouses breathe in some
of the salty aromas of the sea.
It was thought that Ardbeg was established in 1815 but as
this was an area favoured by smugglers and illicit distillers,
distilling may have been carried out here for much longer.
The attraction of this location would have been the plentiful
supply and quality of the water that runs from Loch Uigidale
and through Loch Iarnan. Today, the water still comes from
springs that run into the loch, travelling through peat before
arriving at the distillery; the peat level in the water also
helping in a small way to give Ardbeg its distinctive style.
Many distilleries were started by farmers as a way of using
their barley. It seems likely that this was also the case
at Ardbeg as the distillery is surrounded by a large farm.
The farm is still owned by the distillery and operated successfully
by a tenant farmer.
The distillery was owned and run by the McDougall family
from its establishment until 1959, when it closed. Ownership
was then taken up by a consortium and in 1976 Hiram Walker
bought out the other shareholders. The distillery has been
in operation since 1959 with a break from 1981 to 1989. Allied
Distillers now own Hiram Walker and it is with their authority
that Gordon & MacPhail bottle Ardbeg under the Connoisseurs
Choice label.
The distillery is well laid out and was designed by the noted
architect of distilleries - Charles Doig. He was in practice
in Elgin and his plans were used for many distilleries in
the Spey valley. The layout he used was well tried and his
distilleries were compact with all activities in proximity
to each other.
The distillery used to have two maltings, the East and West,
and it was the last distillery on the island to produce all
its malt at the distillery. The maltings were unusual in that
there were no fans in the pagodas on the roof, causing the
peat smoke to permeate the malt for longer than at other distilleries.
The peaty flavours you identify in Ardbeg 1974 probably result
largely from this method of malting. Ardbeg is, in fact, the
most heavily peated of the Islay malts. Although the maltings
at the distillery are no longer used these days, the malt
now comes from the maltings at Port Ellen, where the level
of peatiness is catered for in the specification given to
the maltings.
Malt is stored in bins before grinding in a Boby mill. This
mill is of great age and may date back to 1900. The distillery
uses an unusual and ingenious batch weighing unit for measuring
the malt before grinding. The mash tun, with a capacity of
four tons, was built by Newmill Iron works of Elgin in 1961
and is of traditional style with stirring gear and gunmetal
plates. The mash takes eight hours.
There are six wash backs made of Oregan pine. Each holds
30,000 litres and fermentation takes 60 hours. Only distiller’s
yeast is used whereas most distillers use a mixture of brewer’s
and distiller’s yeast.
The stills have wide necks, which probably contribute to
the oily, full body of Ardbeg 1974. The wash still has a capacity
of 18,000 litres and the spirit still, 17,000 litres. The
spirit still has a purifier at the end of the lye pipe. The
stills were converted to steam heating in 1966 and pans were
installed for heating. Whilst the bases of the stills were
changed at that time the upper parts have not changed for
well over 50 years. They have large rivets and an interesting
overlapping vertical joint compared with the welds seen today.
The spirit was cooled in worm tubs until 1960 when condensors
were installed. The distillery has a capacity of one million
litres of alcohol per annum.
The distillery buildings stand next to the sea shore with
two small piers that were previously used for transporting
supplies to the distillery. Today, five small fishing boats
catch lobster, crabs and scallops that find a ready market
in Spain and Portugal. Sea Otters can often be seen playing
on the rocks in front of the distillery and at times they
even walk amongst the distillery buildings! The extensive
warehousing on the site extends to over ten acres. Some warehouses
are used for traditional storage of casks and others are tall
racked warehouses.
For many years the distillery was operated along with the
distillery farm. The workforce would have been quite large
as many would have been required to cut peat for use in the
maltings. Like the distillery the manager’s office is
of the traditional style, with wood panelling and an enviable
view over the sea shore. Many old photographs adorn the walls,
one of which shows a squad of men cutting peat near an inland
loch.
The Manager of both Ardbeg and the company’s sister
distillery, Laphroaig, is Iain Henderson. He has extensive
experience in the industry, both on the mainland and on Islay.
The Brewer at Ardbeg, Duncan Logan has worked there for 33
years and has close connections with the distillery covering
many more years. His wife has lived in one of the distillery
houses for all her life.
Ardbeg is a traditional distillery of great charm and a long
history. It produces a distinctive pungent and the most heavily
peated of any whisky on the island. Many fans of Islay whiskies
and Ardbeg in particular will go to great lengths to find
a bottle of Ardbeg. Iain Henderson recalls receiving a phone
call from New Zealand, when the caller urgently required further
supplies of his favourite dram as his last remaining bottle
was almost finished!
(Visited May 1996)
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